The Catlins

A coastal rainforest park.

Some wonderful jungle here again, lots of ferns and mosses, lichens and interestingly different native trees, some that grow sideways, some that have razor-like leaves. Deserted beaches (not so warm here though!) sea caves, blow-holes and waterfalls.

More seals and sneaky peaks at a few Hector's dolphins, who feed about 10 metres from the coast here.

Had my first oysters here, Bluff oysters from Bluff, the southernmost tip of the South Island. Shared a backpackers' house for two nights, though we did have a private bathroom, so not quite the real deal!

 

 

Nugget Point

 

 

 

 

Cathedral Caves

 

 

 

Animal Magic

We drove out to the Otago Peninsula today from Dunedin, which is another great place for wildlife. We greedily signed up for two tours, one to see Royal albatrosses (it's tempting to call them  albatrossi!) and the other for yellow-eyed penguins. It's the time of year for the albatross chicks to be left alone on the nest so both adults can go gathering food for it to grow even fatter! So unfortunately no adults; they can go off for several days at a time. We did see 5 two month olds though, and a fluffier baby I've never seen!

The penguin tour was really good. We visited an " intensively managed" colony; they are rare and endangered. Saw the "hospital" and then went out to the cliffs and through man-made tunnels to spy on them. They are a penguin that likes it's own space so relatively easy to find in their territories. The best and very lucky bit was the last part of the tour which showed us how a group of 5 were being "soft released"- spending time very near the beach in a pen to get used to the sights and sounds of the ocean. The guide thought the pen door was due to be opened tomorrow, but as we watched they waddled out! We stood with a great view of them hesitatingly moving towards the sea, going back and forth a few times and after about 20 mins plunging in! All in spite of a seal appearing from the sea and scaring them for a while. What timing eh?
 

Mt Cook

We did a couple of great walks here, one that took us across 3 suspension bridges, and the weather was pretty good so we had some realy clear views of Mt Cook, the highest mountain in Australasia. Also saw a peregrine quite close up, which we were v pleased about- very rare! There were some huge glacial erratics here and some very prominent lateral moraines too. I should have studied Geography at school!

On our way to Dunedin today we stopped at Moeraki to see these famous boulders on the beach. It's fascinating how they came about; very basically, they formed around organic matter, such as sea animals and have been exposed due to erosion of the cliffs. Quite amazing!

Another day, another bach

Last night found us in another out of the way bay on a farm in Akaroa, this time in a rustic Bach with a loo 50 yards up the track! We did a 24 hour tour with a bit of kayaking (about an hour which is just long enough for me! - saw lots of seals and a "nursery" of 2 month olds), a search for penguins, even though really it was not quite the right time, and a soaking wet walk through "bush" down towards Flea Bay. We found 1 "little penguin" who was late moulting, he should have been feeding back at sea, who was very cute.

A couple of days ago we had a very enjoyable visit to Kaikora. Wild waves here and a great walk around the peninsula. The seas around this area are great for developing bright colours in the paua (abalone) shells they harvest. Some lovely jewellery shops! We were lucky to manage a dolphin trip here to see dusky dolphins. Lucky because the weather was not great and the seas pretty high. The dolphins were very acrobatic so it was great fun.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A compost toilet on our bush walk!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At a wonderful mosaic garden in Akaroa

A little piece of paradise

Beginning to make our way down the east coast now after a four day holiday within a holiday at Abel Tasman N.P. This bit was organised by tour guide Wally, who was extra popular on day three as he left a bottle of wine for us in our "Bach" (pronounced batch, short for batchelor pad or chalet as we know it)
It's a beautiful coastal park with views to die for. You Dobbos would love it here! We walked along the track, or "tramped" to use the kiwi word each day and took a few water taxis too to get to bays only accessible that way. Lots of kayakers around although we didn't do any of that this time. So lucky with the weather, we had 3 lovely sunny days out of the four, and not too much rain and cloud on the last.

 

The sand is orangey due to the iron in the granite rocks

 

 

 

 

Split apple rock!

Lake Taupo to Hawke's Bay

On the way to Taupo we called in to Waimangu Volcanic Park. Hard to choose which park to visit, there are so many here. In the end we went with the motel owner's favourite. Not many people and a lovely forested walk down a rift valley to look at mud pools, fumaroles, craters and lakes.

At Taupo we had booked "one of the best one day walks in the world", but couldn't do it on the 8th due to high winds. Luckily we had two nights here so swapped to the 9th. A birthday treat in the end! Aching now but it was definitely worth it.

Lovely day taking it a bit easier today in Napier, Hawke's Bay. An estuary walk where we saw a v pretty kingfisher, followed by some wine-tasting as another birthday treat! I think I actually said,

 "this is the life". 2 whites, a pink, 2 reds and 2 dessert wines later I was seriously enjoying that life. One of the dessert wines was really wonderful. They nicknamed it "liquid gold" and that says it all. Wish I could bring some home for you all to try!

Just had some fish and mussels and chips.T and E, there were some whitebait fritters that I think you two would have enjoyed.

 

 

Red water ferns in the crater lake at the volcanic park

 

 

 

"Mount Doom" 

 

The red crater on the Tongariro walk

 

 

 

Emerald pools, same place

 

 

 

 

 "Go back?...really?! It's a flippin' long way! Well I suppose if the volcano really is erupting..."

 

 

 Same place as picture 1, oops! A fumarole

 

 

 

 

Hawke's Bay

Heading south

So after a quick stay up north we headed back down past Auckland again. A good stop-off at a marine reserve for another beach picnic and an "ecology walk" along the coast, through forest, jungle and wetland. Some beautiful birdsong there. The next day we visited Waitomo caves. One of them, the main reason for our visit, had lots of glow-worms just above a river at the bottom of the cave. It was quite magical. It helped that we all had to be very quiet and of course it was very dark!

Stayed in a lovely B&B that night with great breakfast! Yesterday we set off for Rotorua, Maori culture and geothermal capital. On the way I managed to persuade N to take me to Hobbiton. I told him it could be for my birthday which I may say quite a lot over the next few days!! It was good fun and lovely weather too, which you can't say about today. We borrowed the DVD from the motel last night so we could say, "we were there!"

Today we've been educated in Maori ways and visited a village amongst mud pools and hot springs. There was a song and dance session, which included the Haka of course, and it was very catchy, made you feel like swaying and humming along! I was interested to find out that when they do that kind of hand shaking it's to make the words come alive.

 

 

Bilbo's house

 

 

 

 

The Shire

 

 

 

 

Another walk

 

 

 

New Zealand

Arrived in Auckland, the start of the next leg of our journey a few days ago after an 11 hour night flight.

We really enjoyed ourselves here in the "city of sails". Had a lovely day across the harbour in Devonport, (drove past a Birkenhead yesterday too!) Walked along the coast and climbed a couple of dormant volcanoes for fab views all around the bays. Very good fish and chips/pie and chips in the evening! While we were there a round the world boat race was completing a leg in Auckland so we stayed out to cheer them in. Went to a couple of info sessions- displays, quizzes etc about it all too. It's quite amazing what these guys put themselves through; for some, long bouts of sea sickness (waves can be 30 metres high!), 4 hours on 4 off ( if they're lucky) for up to 30 days at a time, no shower, cramped conditions (we climbed into a boat for a look).

After a couple of days there we picked up the car and headed for Paihia, in the Bay of Islands area, about 3 and a half hours north. What struck me on the journey and in Auckland are the number of trees everywhere. It's very green.

Today we took a picnic and got on another boat to one of the islands and followed a few tracks round the island. Again, lovely views, with lots of upping and downing! Have decided I am out of shape; N tells me this long hike we have booked in a few days time is "strenuous" and I am finding the hills we've done recently hard! Not sure how much I'm looking forward to that!
 

A scallop shell hello from NZ!

 

Devonport with Auckland city in the background

 

 

 

 

Bay of islands